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<\/a>Alhambra Bound<\/p><\/div>\n
We do not have a timed entry into the Nazaries Palace part of the Alhambra until 1400. We are not sure how much time we will need in the rest of the Alhambra. Reviews and information is sketchy, anywhere from 4-6 hours to all day to long lines to very confusing layout to you need passport, it is all over the place. We decide to go fairly early and see the parts that are not on a timed entry and go from there. The walk there is not as bad as advertised and even though the last .75 miles is all uphill it is a decent grade. We walk through an old gate and then along a nicely wooded park area until we reach the main entry.<\/p>\n
<\/a>View from the Gardens<\/p><\/div>\n
The line is fairly short for those like us who have tickets. Unfortunately, the ticket lady is having technical problems with her ticket scanner. We patiently wait 10 minutes while she tries to figure it out, then she gives up and has the group ticket guy scan our tickets.<\/p>\n
<\/a>In the Generalife<\/p><\/div>\n
We start out walking in the generalife area which was the Sultans summer retreat and gardens even though it was outside of the palace wall. The residents of the Alhambra(1000 or so) enjoyed the fresh fruits and vegetables that were grown here. There are hedge gardens along with ponds and fountains here.<\/p>\n
<\/a>The Small Palace<\/p><\/div>\n
We enter the small palace and into an Arabian garden (planted 650 years ago)of the Moorish Kings. The amazing part is that a royal aqueduct diverted water from the Darro River. It was channeled through the long fountain here and then to irrigate the larger gardens outside. More aqueducts and channels water all the gardens in the Alhambra plus provided water for the residents living here.<\/p>\n
<\/a>CNC Archway<\/p><\/div>\n
We stroll through another area of the gardens and then head along a well marked path toward the Alcazaba. There are more hedges and gardens as we walk the path. It is a beautiful day for enjoying the area.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Tower Viewpoints<\/p><\/div>\n
The Alcazaba was the original fort or “red castle” (Alhambra) and is the oldest part of the complex. It is from the mid 13th century but it is believed that a Roman fort probably stood here also. This was the defensive area that protected the town of 2,000 living within the Alhambra walls. We wind our way up to viewpoints and through tunnels and walls to the biggest tower at the tip of the area.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Original Sierra Nevada<\/p><\/div>\n
From here, we can see the Plaza Nueva where we started our climb up this morning, a grand city view, and the Sierra Nevada Mountains, which are still snow capped. There are four flags flying, blue for the EU, green and white for Andalucia, red and yellow for Spain, and red and green for Granada. In 1492, Muslim rule in Spain came to an end here and the Christian Cross along with the flags of Aragon and Castile were raised here. We also learn that Napolean stationed troops here, and as he did elsewhere, ruined a large part of the complex.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Inside Charles V Palace<\/p><\/div>\n
We exit the Alcazaba and go to the palace of Charles V. He used the Nazaries palace as his residence but built this palace for official functions. It has a unique circular courtyard within the square design. It is kind of odd with no roof giving it more of a stadium feel rather than a palace. His son abandoned the project to build El Escorial, so perhaps it was supposed to have a dome. While here, we peak into the museum which has moorish artifacts.<\/p>\n
<\/a>San Francisco Gardens<\/p><\/div>\n
We still have about an hour and a half until our Nazaries entrance time so we find a nice park bench to eat lunch on. We are prepared with a picnic lunch of sandwiches and lemon cookies. After lunch, we leisurely walk around, first to the Parador of San Francisco, a hotel and national monument. It was a moorish palace and then a Franciscan Monastery, we find a part of the church where Queen Isabel was buried until she was moved to the Royal Chapel in 1521. We did not know this was here.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Frog Close Up<\/p><\/div>\n
We walk into the San Francisco gardens that we passed by earlier and sit near some ponds. There are frogs croaking, birds looking for a tadpole meal, and cats looking for a bird meal. We notice the hedge lane we walked earlier has a castle design on top. There is also a nearby sign that says they built underground dungeons for prisoners here. A peaceful place for sure. As our 1400 time approaches, we walk back toward the Nazaries Palace entrance, peaking in the local church as we go. There were also some Arab baths here from the 1300’s but they are closed for restoration.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Courtyard of the Myrtles<\/p><\/div>\n
Our time for the Nazaries arrives and we go in. We go through a small prayer room and courtyard before entering the large Courtyard of the Myrtles, named for the hedges along its pond. Moorish women were not allowed outside often so this was one of the few places in the palace where they could get fresh air. Wooden screens in the windows were meant to keep men other than their husbands from looking at them. We then enter the ship room named not because of the wooden hull ceiling but because of a language barrier. The Arab word baraka meaning divine blessing and luck, was metamorphosed by the Spanish into barca which means ship and there you have it. It was the waiting room or entry room into the throne room where you would meet the Sultan.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Throne Room Ceiling<\/p><\/div>\n
The throne room is a perfect cube with a star studded wooden ceiling made from 8017 inlaid pieces. Two things most likely happened in this room back in 1492. The Moorish King Boabdil surrendered ending the 700 year battle to reclaim Spain from the Moors and Queen Isabel agreed to back Columbus’s now famous voyage.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Lion Fountain<\/p><\/div>\n
The next courtyard we enter is the Courtyard of the Lions where only the Royal Family were allowed. It is named for the 12 marble lion fountain in the middle where four channels carry water to the various private rooms of the royal family. There are 124 balanced columns ( from the 1300’s) with lead fittings that allowed them to flex in case of earthquakes stalactite stucco, and intricate patterns.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Catholic Monarchy and Muslim Writing<\/p><\/div>\n
In one hall, we find a ceiling where the double headed eagle and the mark of King Ferdinand (F) and Queen Isabel (Y) was added. The phrase “Only Allah is Victorious” is underneath. This praise is repeated in the palace over 9,000 times.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Muslim Star Ceiling<\/p><\/div>\n
The next room, the Hall of the Abencerrajes) is the Sultans living room with a beautiful ceiling based on the eight sided Muslim star. The name of the room is from a legend where Boabdils father took a new wife and wanted to disinherit the children of the first wife. So the Sultan killed nearly all of the pre Boabdil Abencerrajes family members which he thought would pave the way for the son of his new wife to be Sultan. He is said to have stacked 36 heads in the pool that was in this room. Boabdil was not killed and ended up assuming the throne so the plan failed.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Hall of Kings Painting<\/p><\/div>\n
We also see the Hall of the Kings where paintings on several goat leather ceilings depicts the Sultans family. This is a rare look at Royal life here as the palace is devoid of figures elsewhere. We eventually exit the moorish side of the palace and exit through the Patio of Lindaraja into the Partal garden. We do get a peek at the former palace baths before we exit.<\/p>\n